Saturday, July 31, 2010

Tout Seul

There has been a big change since my last blog post. The two other Peace Corps volunteers in Kenieba both decided to end their service early and return to the US. One of them had already left by the time I got back at the end of June, and the other came down on Fourth of July weekend to pack up his stuff and leave. I became the only American in Kenieba, which is already in an isolated area of Mali (the closest American to me went from being a 10 minute walk to a full day trip away). On top of that, my host family left to spend their summer vacation with relatives in Bamako. For the next few months, I am the only person living in the compound. I used to eat lunch with my host family every day; now I am cooking lunches for myself.

Obviously, I’m not tout seul (all alone), but it felt like that at first. I had to reevaluate my situation… am I crazy to stay here for another year? If it didn’t work out for the other guys, maybe this isn't for me either? Could I keep living here, being the only white person in a town of 12,000 people? Life is certainly hard… after three months of oppressive heat, it is rainy season now and the mosquitoes, crickets and other creepy crawlers have come back to life. As I've mentioned on here many times, public transportation to and from Kenieba is an ordeal.

I had some tough days, but I worked through it, forcing myself to reconnect with friends and work partners. What’s keeping me going is the friendships I’ve developed with Malians. I enjoy hearing their stories and sharing stories of life in the US with them over countless rounds of tea. It's humbling to witness everyday life here, especially the women who work seemingly nonstop to cook meals, do household chores, and earn money for their family during their precious free time.

The work I am involved in will hopefully bring a new source of income to some of the women and give new skills to some of the businesspeople in Kenieba. I feel I am becoming a stronger person, overcoming these challenges and accomplishing the work I came here to do.

Thursday, June 24, 2010

Back from my Eurotrip

I’m back in Mali after a fantastic vacation in Europe, visiting Paris and Grenoble, France with by brother and spending 10 days in Switzerland with the rest of my family. It was the perfect mental medicine after 11 months in Mali… it was so nice to be in the developed world again, enjoying amenities I’ve grudgingly lived without (machine washer and dryer, dishwasher, refrigerator, no daily power outages, cell phone calls without a noticeable delay, a toilet!). Although it’s really hard to compare Europe and Mali, I found some of the differences to be really interesting:

  • I couldn’t believe the cats and dogs I saw on the streets of Paris, not only how well trained and well treated they were, but how big and healthy they looked. Malians themselves aren’t getting a nutritious diet, so their animals certainly aren’t getting enough to eat. The cows in Switzerland are huge! No cows look like that here in Mali, literally skin and bones.
  • After living through three straight months of 110°+ weather in Mali, I forgot what comfortable weather felt like. It was so nice to put on a light fleece when it was cool, and actually enjoy a nice day outside under the sun. Some people asked me why I wasn’t more tan… I definitely avoid the sun in Mali when it’s so hot outside!
  • I had forgotten how long the days are this time of year in Europe. Since Mali isn’t far from the equator, the length of the day only varies by about an hour all year long. You get used to the sun setting by 7:30 every night. The first night I was in Paris, I went to the Louvre in the evening, figuring I would leave once it was dark outside… the sun didn’t set until 10:30 PM!
  • Whenever I would greet someone like a cashier or shopkeeper in Paris, I would say “Bonjour!” and get a “Bonjour!” reply, like you would in any French-speaking country. But when I would ask “ça va?” I would get some funny looks. Some people didn’t know what to say, like they were actually shocked to hear that I wanted to know how they are! You can’t just say hello to someone in Mali, you ask how they are, how their family is, did they sleep well or how was their day, etc.
  • I didn't notice this one until I got back to Mali... Africa Time. It took me a little while to get used to all the downtime again... in Mali, things run on West Africa International Time, aka WAIT.

It was a strange feeling getting off the plane in Bamako, returning to what most people would say is an exotic place, but a place that has become my home. I didn't hesitate to greet people in Bambara, search for a decent taxi from the chaotic arrivals area of the Bamako airport, and crack some superficial jokes with the taxi driver about eating beans that make you fart. Though it’s still really hot here, it’s good to be back. It was good to see my friends again and share some good Swiss chocolate with everyone.

Two days after I arrived back in Mali, I attended an engagement party in Bamako for a friend of mine, Laura (her blog is Oulesse-what?). I was honored to be a witness at the engagement ceremony. It was fun to attend a Malian party and know the people who were being celebrated, which is not usually the case for me. There was a great feast of lamb, fried rice, sweet potato and eggplant, and delicious marinated lamb kebabs. We also had chicken and fries for dinner. It was a delicious Malian meal and a great party that I won’t soon forget!

It is hard for me to realize that two weeks from now, I will have been in Mali for a full year. I’ve certainly had my share of highs and lows, achievements and frustrations. I was hoping the rains would be in full force when I returned, but it seems to be about the same as when I left… rain every few days to cool things off, but hot and humid on the days it doesn’t rain. The monsoon-like rains should be here in full force soon, which will be great to cool things off, but make it very difficult for me to leave Kenieba! I can’t wait for the landscape to become green again… it’s a spectacular sight that I definitely took for granted last year.

The new Peace Corps Trainees will arrive next week to begin their intensive cultural and language training, the same training I received last year. Some of the trainees may end up working in the Kayes region, maybe even down near Kenieba, so I am looking forward to meeting them when they come out for site visit in August. It’s also an exciting time for the second year volunteers as they are finishing their two year service and will be leaving, a few each week, over the next few months. As for me, it’s one year down, one to go!

Friday, May 21, 2010

Shea Butter Formation

I was very busy during the last few weeks in Kenieba, preparing for, organizing and running a shea butter formation for thirty-six women that took place on May 12, 13 and 14. (Quick French lesson… training = formation, female trainer = formatrice). My funding proposal was approved in mid-April and the money arrived in my account soon after. When I returned to Kenieba at the beginning of May, I met with the women’s association who worked with me to host the formation. There was still a lot of work to do, from buying the materials that were needed at the training, to planning food and drink needs, and making sure the women would contribute some of the necessary supplies. When I mentioned to my friends around town that I was holding this formation, they suggested that I invite women from rural villages to come. That was logical because the shea trees (where shea nuts come from to turn into shea butter) are all out in rural areas, and women in Kenieba will not be as interested in making shea butter because they have other things to do in a big town. So I handwrote four invitations that were delivered to four villages around Kenieba.

All of the preparations seemed to be going smoothly, as the funds had arrived in my account 10 days before the formation was scheduled to begin and the women who were helping me prepare completed the things I had asked them to do. I should have been more suspicious when everything was going so well, because two days before the trainer was scheduled to leave Bamako to come here, I received a call that the formatrice would not be coming out to Kenieba for the formation. She needed to fill in for another trainer at a shea butter formation near Bamako. I was shocked to hear that only four days before the training was to begin, I wouldn’t have a trainer to run the training! A miscommunication resulted in the formatrice thinking that the dates of my training had not been set, so she thought she could hold the training a few weeks later. I had already bought most of the supplies and sent out invitations to four villages, and booked a flight to Europe the last week in May, so postponing the formation by a few weeks was out of the question.

After a stressful 24 hours of trying to decide if I should cancel the training, hold a “conference” where the women could at least come together and discuss their experiences with shea butter, or maybe try to run a basic training myself, I received a call that someone could still come out to Kenieba to hold the training, but the formation had to be pushed back by a few days to accommodate her. Though I was relieved that the training was going to happen, I frantically tried to get the message about the changed dates out to the women in the rural villages, hoping they wouldn’t have to sit around doing nothing for two days! In the end, four of the women did come early, but they didn't mind sitting around. I'm sure it was a nice break from their usual hard work at home.

Anyway, the formation went really well, much better than I expected. All of the sixteen women that I invited from rural villages made it. Unlike practically every meeting in Mali, the shea butter training started on time every day. Even on the first day, the mayor showed up at 8 AM, and gave some opening remarks. The women dressed up in their nicest clothes, and I was happy to see that they took this training seriously. I also donned some nice Malian shirts that a tailor friend made for me.

Some of the women were literate and could speak some French, but most of the women could only speak Bambara, and most couldn’t read or write. Each day, the trainer had all of the women sign in using their fingerprint. The training was held in Bambara, so I couldn’t understand everything that the trainer was explaining, but I could catch some words here or there. Sometimes I would ask the formatrice what she had gone over. But it was obviously more important that the women could understand the formatrice and learn from her.

The women respected the formatrice and listened intently to what she had to say. She split them up into two groups and had them write down the ways that they traditionally make shea butter. After comparing the groups’ steps, the formatrice explained that to make high quality shea butter that can be sold to bigger markets (and sold for more money), they need to make shea butter a different way. She wrote down the steps, explained them numerous times, and even had the women repeat the steps to make sure they remembered and understood them. She would call on someone and ask her to recite the whole process of making shea butter. I could tell some of the women were nervous about doing that. It was like being called out in class and the teacher asking you to recite something you just learned… not easy! Also, if she caught any of the women falling asleep, she would call on them and ask what she had just said, basically embarrassing them! There were men who came to observe the formation, and when some of them were falling asleep, she even asked them to leave! That’s not typical here either, a woman telling a man to do something. But the formatrice had some status as she was a professional trainer who came all the way from Bamako.

As the formation continued into the second and third day, I noticed that the women from both Kenieba and from the rural villages were really interested in this new process for making shea butter, and seemed motivated to actually use it in the next cultivating season. It inspired me to help them during the rest of my time here. If they become well organized and take the proper steps to form a cooperative, they could sell large quantities of pure shea butter to buyers in big markets, and generate income for themselves. Although there is a long way to go between the end of this training and the first sale of shea butter to an exporter, I think the women have the potential to make a lot of money doing this, if they are really motivated and interested in doing it. I’d like to help them form a cooperative, get each women’s association the supplies they need to make good shea butter, and help them find initial buyers.

It was great to see these women so interested in a new way to bring in money for their families. I plan to gather all of the women’s association presidents together when I am back in June so we can discuss the next steps. If they are still motivated, and want to put the hard work in to creating this high quality shea butter, I want to work to help these women improve their lives and find a new source of income, other than subsistence farming and dangerous gold mining. Forming and developing this women’s shea butter cooperative will likely become my primary project for the rest of my time here, and I’m excited to help them get started.

Wednesday, April 28, 2010

This One's For Future Mali PCVs

It’s hard to believe that this time last year, I had just arrived back east from an awesome ski season in Park City, Utah, and received my invitation to join the Peace Corps in Mali that summer. One of the first things I did after receiving my invitation was discover the Peace Corps Journals web site. It is a cool insight into the lives of Peace Corps Volunteers already serving in Mali. I really enjoyed reading those blogs, realizing that I would be going through some of the same experiences. When I arrived at training in Mali in July, getting to meet those PCVs was like meeting celebrities! One of the reasons why I decided to start this blog and make it publicly accessible was to pay it forward: give Peace Corps Mali invitees the insight into my Peace Corps experience so far.

One of my biggest concerns in preparing to leave for Mali was how to stuff the next two years of my life into 80 pounds of luggage. Believe me, it isn’t easy, but an important thing to understand is that you can get pretty much everything you need here (some toiletries and electronics are the big exception), and you will adapt to a simpler lifestyle and get used to not having all the luxuries of home. Here is a list of things I brought that I couldn’t live without. It’s definitely not a complete list, and it’s in no particular order, but I hope it can help you decide what to bring:

  • Deodorant – you can only get spray deodorant here, not sticks, so bring a few and plan to have some sent over in the future
  • Exofficio underwear – Their slogan “17 countries. 6 weeks. And 1 pair of underwear” is completely true. Though I didn’t bring one pair of underwear, the few pairs I brought have been so nice to wear and really easy to clean. They are still in great shape 10 months in, and they are really comfortable. The best part is that Peace Corps invitees and volunteers get a big discount on Exofficio clothing directly from the company. Check out the Volunteer Discounts page on the Peace Corps Wiki for more information.
  • Power adapters, but not Power converters. Adapters are the little things that change the shape of a plug from American to European. Converters are big boxes that convert electricity from 220 to 120 volts. One person’s converter caught on fire in the Paris airport before we even got to Mali. Be sure to check the electric things you are bringing though to make sure they work with 220 volt power (one notable exception is hair clippers, bring a converter if you're bringing those), but any digital camera, laptop, and iPod charger will work here with just an adapter and without a power converter.
  • REI Bug Hut… I didn’t use it at first since it was rainy season when we arrived, but now that it’s hot and dry season I have been sleeping in mine each night for the past two months. It’s nice to have an easy to set up, durable, and portable mosquito net tent. They are kind of expensive though… some will be available here from PCVs that have finished their service and are looking to get rid of their stuff.
  • Pillow from home – This was one of the best things I brought with me, a nice down pillow. Get one of those Eagle Creek vacuum pack bags that sucks all the air out, and it will be easy to pack the pillow. Eagle Creek sells vacuum pack bags and other packing supplies, and you can get a discount from them too (see Peace Corps Wiki).
  • Hostel sheet – this is basically a regular bedsheet stitched together to make a lightweight sleeping bag. I’ve used this so many times, especially during the first two months when you’re travelling all the time between homestay and the training center.
  • A roll of duct tape – always comes in handy
  • Carabineer – cheap and you'll find a use for one here, I use mine to carry my Nalgene on my backpack
  • Headlamp, with extra batteries for it (especially if they’re AAA)
  • Nalgene bottle – don’t leave home without at least one of these
  • Fly swatter – people gave me a hard time about bringing one but personally, I like having something at quick reach to kill annoying insects. And it doesn’t take up any room in your bag.
  • Decent towel – I brought a big quick-drying travel towel that works great. It’s also hard to find a good towel here.
  • A good knife – not necessarily a leatherman, but a basic pocket knife would be helpful. In terms of kitchen supplies, bring a good kitchen knife too. You can get everything else here, and once you’re installed at your site, you either get to inherit the previous PCV’s kitchen tools (which I was fortunate enough to do), or buy what you can in the Malian market and have other little stuff sent over
  • Keen or Chaco open toe sandals –you will wear them all the time here. See Peace Corps Wiki for discount.
  • iPod, with some basic speakers – If you have an iPod, you would be crazy not to bring it with you to Mali. Mine has held up against all the elements (dust, dirt, heat, curious Malians) pretty well so far, and it is invaluable for all those long trips to and from my site. I was so happy I brought my iPod Touch with me, not only for the music but also for a quick way to check my e-mail when there is Wifi (like at the Peace Corps training center and regional houses), and also for all the cool games and other apps. It’s pretty cool that I can download the entire day’s issue of the New York Times and read it on my way back to site.
  • Laptop – this is a tough one, because you can definitely do without one here. I was really happy I brought mine. I am fortunate to be in a site with 12 hours of electricity each day, so I can use my laptop at site. But even if you end up in a site that doesn’t have electricity, you can leave your laptop locked up in your closest Peace Corps regional house, and use it for accessing the Internet, syncing your iPod, and getting work done. Most of the Peace Corps houses in Mali have wireless Internet access. And having your own laptop makes getting your activity reports and project proposals done here a ton easier. I wouldn’t go out and buy a new expensive laptop, because it will be ruined in the dust and the heat, but if you already have one, I’d recommend bringing it. Definitely bring some sort of a case or bag that will protect your laptop from the dust when you’re not using it.

I would be happy to answer any questions you have about getting ready to leave, life in Mali, etc. My e-mail address is wbudd3@gmail.com. Unfortunately I only have access to the Internet once a month, but I will respond when I’m back online. Good luck packing, enjoy the rest of your time in the US, and eat lots of cheese, ice cream, and other favorite foods!